tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1592992209402300549.post2520585096437019219..comments2024-03-27T19:38:49.490-04:00Comments on The Silicon Graybeard: Weekly Update on the 1 by 1 - part 16SiGraybeardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00280583031339062059noreply@blogger.comBlogger8125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1592992209402300549.post-13184787616120815382021-11-29T12:09:23.290-05:002021-11-29T12:09:23.290-05:00Sorry, I didn't finish reading your text befor...Sorry, I didn't finish reading your text before commenting (that is bad, and rude, and I apologize). You are already making vise jaws. Just add a chamfered trough along the top edges, perhaps 0.125" down, to hold the edges of the cylinder blank. This is easy to do with your 45 degree chamfer bit. Oh...wait...<br /><br />$20 - $30 at Amazon. Go ye, and expand your toolbox.Malatropehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06130944283006020214noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1592992209402300549.post-34598235807253443292021-11-29T10:38:09.631-05:002021-11-29T10:38:09.631-05:00Contact me directly if you like and I'll see i...Contact me directly if you like and I'll see if there is a chamfer Mill laying around.tooldieguyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06876588241514291518noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1592992209402300549.post-29320939917199336302021-11-29T09:52:40.387-05:002021-11-29T09:52:40.387-05:00I would have held it lengthwise in a vise and cut ...I would have held it lengthwise in a vise and cut them off with a bandsaw. Another way to do it is to use a vise with a long notch across the top of the jaws, to hold the sharp edges properly (you can make a pair of vise jaw covers to do that). Or, as tooldieguy said, use a chamfer mill.Malatropehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06130944283006020214noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1592992209402300549.post-75406343465606898922021-11-29T09:31:22.292-05:002021-11-29T09:31:22.292-05:00Funny - I was just thinking of that.
First thou...Funny - I was just thinking of that. <br /><br />First thought was why not stand it up in my bandsaw to cut those points off. It doesn't have to be perfect, just closer to an octagon than a square. <br /><br />Then I thought I don't exactly have a chamfer cutter, but I do have some countersinks that I could run along the edges. One thing CNC is really good for is lots of repetitive, light cuts.<br /><br />Thanks again - your input is very valuable. You, too, Wandering Neurons. <br />SiGraybeardhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00280583031339062059noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1592992209402300549.post-52292197028345509372021-11-29T09:16:52.646-05:002021-11-29T09:16:52.646-05:00Other options. Use a chamfer Mill to put flats on ...Other options. Use a chamfer Mill to put flats on the corners, then hold on the flats, or stand the part up in the vise and interpolate it roundtooldieguyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06876588241514291518noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1592992209402300549.post-21551087677118511402021-11-29T08:39:47.716-05:002021-11-29T08:39:47.716-05:00I've been concerned about that but don't h...I've been concerned about that but don't have the experience to be sure it's going to get thrown. <br /><br /><i>The cut doesn't have to be a "V", it could be a square cut where the width is slightly less than the depth. </i><br /><br />The problem is that on the first cuts that's a sharp Vee point to hold, but after the first two points are trimmed back, the jaw has to hold a flat that's over 3/4" wide. Anything that holds that 0.776" flat is going to look like the current jaws to the Vee, and anything narrow enough to just hold the Vee looks like the flat jaw to the 0.776 flat. <br /><br /><i>Can you hold the part by the ends? Thy way you're clamping on flat.surfaces. </i> <br /><br />I think so. The standard vise jaws are still too low, but these new ones I made will grab it over much more surface area, more than halfway up the part. <br /><br />The finished cylinder is going to be 2-3/8 long, but I left about 3/4 to a full 1" extra rough stock for the lathe chuck jaws so it's a bit over-sized now. I could mill off just enough to fit between the new jaws.<br /><br />SiGraybeardhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00280583031339062059noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1592992209402300549.post-68822711051648683582021-11-29T08:01:03.125-05:002021-11-29T08:01:03.125-05:00Can you hold the part by the ends? Thy way you'...Can you hold the part by the ends? Thy way you're clamping on flat.surfaces. WN is correct, clamping.on the corners is a recipe for loud noisestooldieguyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06876588241514291518noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1592992209402300549.post-67650001526922564002021-11-28T23:37:37.200-05:002021-11-28T23:37:37.200-05:00Dollars to donuts, as soon as your mill hits that ...Dollars to donuts, as soon as your mill hits that bar edge from the side, or the forces are the least bit uneven, the square bar will rotate out of the V-blocks and bounce around the room violently. More pressure from your vice jaws will only increase the bounce!<br />I'd figure out how to put a cut on each of the plates that you made for the vice jaws to keep the bar from twisting. The cut doesn't have to be a "V", it could be a square cut where the width is slightly less than the depth. Something to trap that 90 degree angle and keep the bar from rotating.<br />Wandering NeuronsAnonymousnoreply@blogger.com