tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1592992209402300549.post5635463063430184636..comments2024-03-28T08:06:43.198-04:00Comments on The Silicon Graybeard: Followup on Flywheels and Drilling and TappingSiGraybeardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00280583031339062059noreply@blogger.comBlogger4125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1592992209402300549.post-90899110558008707632018-06-19T22:06:44.665-04:002018-06-19T22:06:44.665-04:00In future, consider two mods to hold those bits:
G...In future, consider two mods to hold those bits:<br />Grind a flat on the drill shaft (mark it through the set screw hole)<br /><br />Use a flat tip setscrew (there are variations of flat). <br />If you can't find ones short enough, cut them, and then use your dremel to cut a screwdriver slot in the fresh end. Don't use a pointed tip on hardened surfaces, like drills. Too much trouble to attempt a proper divot. Flat on flat should be adequate for most applications. Grind the tip flat if you can't buy them.Willhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00722792638246578812noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1592992209402300549.post-42394291574231415722018-06-17T23:15:07.028-04:002018-06-17T23:15:07.028-04:00It will touch at the same 10 degrees to the vertic...It will touch at the same 10 degrees to the vertical. It seems it was the only way to get a pair of setscrews in there, with the hub only being 1/16" wider (on a side) than the rim of the wheel. (shrug) There are other ways it could have been secured, but it's the way the designer went. <br />SiGraybeardhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00280583031339062059noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1592992209402300549.post-53139964380538369712018-06-17T21:20:35.400-04:002018-06-17T21:20:35.400-04:00"Time to use my tools to make tools"
Do..."Time to use my tools to make tools"<br /><br />Do the same here, but with different stuff.<br /><br />If the setscrew is in the hub at an angle, doen't that make it come down on the shaft at an angle? I don't understand how that could grip the shaft tightly to clamp down on it with such a tiny "tangenental" (is that a real word?) contact patch....drjimhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05647484115197408897noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1592992209402300549.post-20000842875267188132018-06-17T18:46:50.969-04:002018-06-17T18:46:50.969-04:00Another approach on a part like this would be to b...Another approach on a part like this would be to blue the hub face, strike a line across it to establish a center line of the hole, eyeball the distance from the hub face, mark it on bluing for a double check, center punch it, use a long drill bit touching the outer rim for the angle ( as low an angle as possible) , line up the bit with the hub line, hand drill, and hand tap it. Brutal, but fast.<br /><br /> The main problem with an approach like this is lack of repeatability. And also--you do not gain machinist experience that way. Accuracy may suffer a little, but if the set screw engages a flat and not a dimple it should be close enough. <br /><br /> This approach may stem from spending a lot of time in that gray zone between rough mechanic work and machinist work- things like custom sailboat racing rigging, that sort of thing- lay it out in the field, cut up the spar, have fittings tigged up to spec, layout and install the hardware-needs to be reasonably accurate, and functional, but no machine shop.<br /> All the real machinists will be along shortly to yell at me......!<br /><br /> <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> ravennoreply@blogger.com