Sunday, December 8, 2024

Days Fighting Software

I spend my days working around things written in software, but I guess nothing unique about that. It may be a road you've been down, or it may be useful to someone else, so let me tell you a story. 

The center of this story is a computer interface for battery testing from West Mountain Radio, the exact product I'm using apparently is obsolete, but they have a page full of what they call computerized battery analyzers here.  The one I have, the CBA-IV has been replaced by the CBA-V on that page. I originally got this at the Orlando Hamcation from West Mountain on a Hamfest Special price, and judging by my saved pictures of plots, that must have been in February of 2017.  

This is not a charger; all it does is a controlled discharge of the battery, and handful of other tests.  In the world of battery makers and their specifications, the rates at which you can discharge, as well as recharge, are important limits.  For batteries that might run a power tool, they tend to be rated to the capacity in Amps*hours (Amp Hours or AH) while for something like a car starter, or the various jump starter batteries you can buy now, those are rated in "Cold Cranking Amps".  In the first category, the Ryobi tools have batteries rated in Amp Hours, in different output voltages. 

Judging by the number of Ryobi tools I see around, I'm guessing a fair percentage of you have some.  I have three 4AH 18V One+ batteries, along with a 2 and a 1-1/2 AH.  With these batteries, it's pretty easy to decide on a discharge test. Consider the 4AH battery.  That means, if you were to draw a constant 4A, just the capacity C, it would discharge to "dead" in a bit under one hour.  If you discharge it 2A, that's half the capacity or C/2, and the time to discharge goes to a bit under two hours.  To get closest to the 4AH rating, the convention has been that the manufacturers pretty much rate them at the C/10 discharge or 0.4Amps. For the 2AH battery, C/10 is 0.2A, and so on. As rule of thumb, the lower the discharge current the longer the battery charge's life. That is, if you discharge a battery at C/20 and C/10, the C/20 discharge lasts longer than exactly twice what C/10 lasts and so on.

I use the CBA-IV a couple of times a year, and doing the cycles on my various rechargeable batteries pretty much can take up a month. I started out in the middle last week and had some strange things happen.  Let me start with an example of the output from the CBA.

The software popped up that screen and I just screen-captured the whole software window with the discharge curve and the measured results. Note it measured 3.78 AH, and the tab conveniently says 240625_Discharge.  The numbers are the date of the test, 6-25-2024, so last June 25th. 3.78 AH out of a 4AH hour claim is pretty good - 94.5% - especially for a battery that's several years old.  

When I went to test this same battery this week, I got a result closer to 1.2 or 1.3 AH, which is awful.  So what's going on? 

It's in plain sight on this plot.  See that horizontal line two minor divisions above the bottom of the plot?  There's a green arrowhead on the left end of the line. That line is the voltage it was discharging the battery to in order to decide the test was complete there.  That's 15.5 Volts.  While setting up the test to run this week, it said the test should end at 18.6V.  If you eyeball the plot to see where the red curve looks to hit 18.6, it looks to me like about 1.5 hours.  On the other hand, if you look at the right side of the curve, you can see that it goes into a dive downward toward fully discharged at just about 17V. Setting the discharge to 17 would get all but that last roughly 0.2AH of discharge time.

So today, after charging this battery fully, I set the discharge voltage to 17.0.  The software immediately popped up a warning that it wasn't their recommendation, "are you sure?"  I said  yes. The results came out at 2.96AH which is quite a bit degraded from this test which looks to be 3.6 at 17V.  At the moment, I'm testing the other old 4AH battery to see how it compares to this one.  Then I do the new battery.

What's up with the 18.6V vs 15.5 or the compromise 17V?  The gotcha is that I updated the software in the CBA at the start of the testing - call it Tuesday the 3rd. They apparently changed the recommended voltage in the SW update.

When things go wrong, as they sometimes will, to butcher the poem, look at the software first.


EDIT at 0930 Monday Dec.9:  It became clear this morning that I had remembered the results of that all important last test very incorrectly after I turned the computer on and compared reality to my memory.  The last three paragraphs (before the last line) have been revised to reflect the real data from the shop computer.



8 comments:

  1. Well that's some weird synchronicity... I picked up a bunch of bits and pieces from a ham estate this weekend, mostly power and battery related stuff. One of the bags had the version ii of that tester with a note that it no longer had drivers (for windows vista) but could be used with the old software on an XP virtual machine.

    I might poke at it at some point, but for now I guess it's a paperweight.

    I was excited when I saw your post title, hoping that you'd mention an upgrade path... or that I'd at least get to see someone using the tester. 1 out of 2 ain't bad...

    We get a truly shocking amount of functionality from modern software defined devices, but the flip side is that when the software goes obsolete, the functionality drops to near zero, while a piece of hardware (that functions electrically) still does it's job. I don't think here won't be too many hams using "boat anchors" from the 2020s in 50 years, even as hobbyists.

    Or too many 'classic car enthusiasts' running 2024 vehicles since they are almost completely dependent on software, all the way down to the turn signals.

    nick

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    1. While you were commenting, I was revising the post due to some memory errors (mine - in my head) while writing.

      But you're exactly right about "boat anchors". I have two radios from the 1960s in my ham shack. I don't know exactly when they were built, but roughly 60 years ago. One of them I haven't had on in so long I forget, but one receiver I use "a few" times per year. Both are all vacuum tubes. I have no confidence that the radio I use the most will be working in 60 years. Not that I'll be working in 60 years.

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    2. Try connecting a same-voltage (and size if you can) charged-up battery DIRECTLY to the battery + and - for 5 minutes, monitoring for the jumpers trying to melt (they shouldn't). This brings the battery pile up to a voltage where the BMS "comes alive" and charging should proceed normally.

      Give it a shot, what have you got to lose? It brought my DeWalt batteries back alive!

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  2. I don't actually know this: do you accept the risk of "bricking" these small batteries? I don't know if their BMS chips are smart enough to deny you access forever if they discharge down to nearly zero. I have one car starting-battery size LiFePO4 that did this, and it's pissing me off that I can't get the BMS to turn on again no matter what I do.

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    1. I think I have to accept a risk. I mean, I'm discharging the battery at a low rate, much lower than in the tools I tend to use them in. My discharge test runs around 10 hours. That battery won't run the vacuum cleaner I originally bought it for anywhere near that long, let alone things like the Ryobi reciprocating saw. It won't run the vacuum cleaner for an hour. I've never measured the voltage on the battery when the vacuum stops running. That might be an interesting data point. I can foresee a "spearmint" happening soon.

      I don't have any LiFePO4 batteries, but from the little looking I've done, they seem to have a more supervisory BMS than any others I've heard of. With these Li-ion batteries, my suspicion was that they raised the discharge voltage over concerns about the well-documented fires from those in bikes and other consumer products. I have gotten to the point of being concerned about leaving any Lithium battery on a charger if I'm out of the room.

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    2. And do you have your insulated tongs and trashcan handy if indeed it catches fire? ;-)

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    3. Of course not! I have shredded paper to douse it with. It'll work better than my alcohol-based fire extinguisher.

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  3. I am a West Mountain fan. I have had a CBA since II was new. I now have the IV, and you might note that all the models after the first run on the same updated software. I also have their Epic Pwrgate so I can tie my LiFwePO4 battery to a power supply and run my radio with no worry the power may go out (for a few hours). I once did a firmware update on the Pwrgate and bricked it (it was an early model). They had me send it back, and they re-programmed it. It has been working well since then. I would order another -but they are backordered to Mar. 31. Is Covid still crushing supply chains?

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