Monday, November 1, 2021

Weekly Update on the 1 by 1 - Part 12

As I mentioned yesterday, I've completed the crankshaft for the 1 by 1.  A little "pose for pictures" time.

Those counterweights, the first pieces I made, are just sitting where they'll be mounted.  I don't have any #5-40 hardware to mount them, but I do have a tap that I bought while building my Duclos flame eater engine so I tapped the holes as designed.  A smaller #4-40 screw goes into the hole, showing they line up.

Before this, I had to turn both sides to the proper diameter (rough turning here), cut to length and trim the rectangular sections of the crank to proper size (0.500 by 1.000).  I've come to call those rectangular pieces the crankshaft cheeks although they say the word can be webs, cheeks or arms.  Cutting to diameter and length were fiddly operations done slowly and gingerly, and then it was time to try to cut the major remaining feature, a keyway exactly on the top of the long side (left in the above shot).  

The tricky part was how to support the work and hold it so that it would take the cutting forces, while being perfectly parallel to the mill's table.  I first thought of just putting mill parallels (something like this) under the shaft while putting the base of the left crankshaft cheek on the reference surface of the vise.

That was a dopey idea.  The parallels don't hold position well enough and there's nothing resisting movement to the side from cutting forces.  After some thought, I decided to make a fixture that uses the exact dimensions of the cheek that would hold the shaft the same distance off the vise base as the one highlighted here.  This was an hour or so of work on a piece of scrap aluminum I had.  

The tool is on the left, and I made it so that the shaft either slides in from the end or snaps into place.  The setup was to put the new fixture on the left base of the vise and the left cheek on the right base.  Then I verify X, Y and Z are zeroed properly, and cut left to right.  I used a 1/16" wide end mill spinning as fast as my mill can spin it (~2200 RPM), but still only cutting at 1 Inch Per Minute (IPM) in three .018" deep passes. The keyway, though, needs to be 3/32 wide, which is 1/32 wider than 1/16, or 1/64 (.0156") on each side of the keyway.  So I moved the mill table 1/64 on both sides and cut two full vertical depth, .0156 off-the-side passes.  That didn't quite fit a 3/32 drill bit that I tried, so I moved both edges out another .0005" (.001" total width change) and that fit fine. 

The keyway is more visible in this view than the top picture. 

Once that was cut, it was pretty routine to tap the two #5-40 holes you can see, and it's done.  Actually, it's not quite done.  There's still some epoxy on the bearing surface that the piston rides on, from when I epoxied a piece into the gap opposite the journal bearing, between the crankshaft cheeks.  That's to keep the pressure from the lathe centering points from bending the shaft.  I think I can soak that in acetone for a while and then peel it off.

The crankshaft is bound for the finished parts box.  Lots of new things learned, one damaged (but recovering well) finger, and surprisingly little (zero) scrap.  There are 47 pdf files in the document package and it seems that that I've completed four of them.  By ordering a raw flywheel casting made of cast iron, I've eliminated at least one drawing but added things I'll need to either figure out separately, resurrect out of that eliminated drawing, or something.  

First, though, I need to give my big lathe a tuneup.  A few times while working this part, it seemed like it wasn't quite right at a few things.

Speaking of the damaged finger, I saw the surgeon today for a followup and she discharged me.  No followup needed - it's coming along as best as could be hoped for.  She said something like, "if you want, drop by in about a year and show us how it ended up."



7 comments:

  1. Ahhhhh....I wondered why the crankshaft looked "funny" to me until I saw how the counterweights are attached.

    Very nice work, SiG!

    Good the hear the finger is coming along fine.

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  2. Methylene Chloride to dissolve the epoxy. You can find it in a spraycan in autoparts stores, used to remove gaskets. Let it soak, to get into the crevices. Avoid getting it on skin (listed as cancer causing, IIRC). Most gloves will dissolve in this.

    This chemical is what is used to de-cement optical elements.

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    1. Being a cheapskate, since I have the acetone but would have to go buy the MEC, I used the acetone. Worked like a champ and the journal is clean.

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  3. The two stroke motorcycles like OSSA Bultaco etc used to have three piece cranks, with a pressed in crankpin, so a ball bearing could be used on the rod journal. The old mechanics would press it together, then put it in the lathe to check runout, then take it out and tap the assembly with a lead hammer to move it, then check again.

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  4. Good on the finger news, better than my brother-in-law who cut off all his left hand fingers with a radial arm saw (he was the church organist).

    Suggestion: next time drill and tap the holes in the rectangular block before doing all the rest of the work. Then you won't have to worry about dancing around making jigs at the end game. If you put a slight countersink on them (always good practice when tapping), you can use them as reference points throughout the process.

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    1. ..better than my brother-in-law who cut off all his left hand fingers with a radial arm saw...

      That's about a 10 out of 10 on the pucker factor scale.

      The way I read the drawings, those holes are located by the position of the cheeks. They're shown with a spacing referenced to the inner side of the cheek, so the journal has to be turned to size and length first. That meant that at least the first half of the shaft had to be done before I could locate them properly.

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    2. Anything can be used as a datum. You can build the entire part referenced to the center of the first hole, if you have a good way to measure where that center ended up -- thus the countersink which can be measured extremely accurately by dropping a ball bearing onto it.

      The bad part about my brother-in-law was that I had warned him in some detail about how to use a radial arm saw to prevent exactly what he did. He arrogantly dismissed my concern with "I'm an engineer, I think I can figure out a saw". Well, I am an engineer, too, and I have very serious respect for things with mass that move quickly.

      Sometimes God doesn't wait around to educate you. The son of a Lutheran minister should have realized that.

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