Saturday, October 15, 2022

Running Late, So Tower Repair Update

I had started working on an idea that's turning into a Smallest Minority-style "uberpost" and it's looking like there's no way I can finish that in time, so a couple of quick updates on the tower work, simply because I can write this off the top of my head.  The task is turning into a bigger, more involved fix than I really wanted to work on.  Thankfully, it turned into fall back in September - kind of unusual for us - and it's not that bad working outside.  

The majority of the work this past week has been completing the tool that I intended to use to clamp around the tower legs and try to make the one leg round again.  Or, at least, rounder.  

The finished tool.  That's a little over 2" long, 1-7/8" square block of gray cast iron that was machined there on the mill.  It was painfully slow to do, for two reasons.  First off, I find cast iron to be a bitch to machine.  It goes beyond dirty to filthy in the chips it throws.  Second, the sheer size of it made getting tools onto the milling machine far more tedious than usual.  When I used my boring head, I could cut about a .050 radius to full depth either by CNC at 1 inch/minute or cut by hand, as long as vacuumed out the cast iron chips often. 

Why the mill and not my big lathe?  I still have the piston from my 1 by 1 engine on it that I haven't finished (and haven't worked on for a host of other times sinks) that's a position sensitive setup.  I really need to finish that.  "All I gotta do" is finish the two channels for the piston rings - so that I can get it off the big lathe and get access to it.  

The tool clamped onto a round section of the tower leg.

My approach was to slide that tool closer to the obvious kink in the tube and clamp down on it, reshaping the tower leg a few thousandths at a time.  It worked to some degree, but when I went to get a bigger, apparently stronger C-clamp, I did something I've never done; something I didn't even know was possible to do.  The clamp you see there opens to 3" and I replaced it with a 4" clamp.  

I bent it.  By hand.  Just by tightening the clamping action bare handed - not with a "half inch breaker bar."  

Then I went got the even bigger 5" C-clamp.  For that one, I got a short length of pipe to help me tighten the clamping screw.  That bent the handle on the clamping screw.  I took my jigsaw to the that clamp and cut it apart because with the screw bent to 90 degrees, it was impossible to loosen.  I might have found a way around cutting the clamp screw in half, but I had pretty much burned up every nanogram of patience I have by then.


The smaller clamp on the right is bent down close to the handle.  The top of the clamp, lower right, is no longer aligned with the other screw; it's about 1/4" off the table and it closes with the two clamping surfaces out of alignment.  You can see the damage on the one on the left. 

As I've mentioned before somewhere, the tower leg is bent over it's bottom two inches.  

In the second picture you can see a slot in the tube below that bend. I'm sorta following a procedure here that's like an anonymous comment to my last post.  To the previous posts, several people suggested tapering a steel bar and driving that up that leg to both open it back up and straighten it.  I intend to try that with a back up of cutting off that bottom ~ 2" and putting a smaller, heavier wall tube into it's place.  

If end up cutting off the bottom two inches and attaching a smaller tube inside this one, I can use the existing fastener in the concrete slab with some luck.  If I'm using this leg, I'll avoid that slot and drill a new bolt hole perpendicular to the axis of that one; across the tube from this viewing angle.  Either way, I'm replacing the small piece of angle aluminum (2"x2"x1/4" thick).  If I drill perpendicular to that slot, I might put identical pieces of angle aluminum on both sides of the leg and two new fasteners in the concrete slab it's sitting on.  



10 comments:

  1. Have you considered heating up the tower leg to anneal it?

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  2. Sig,
    Can you just saw off the bottom couple inches off ALL the legs, and use the next crossbar up for the hinge pin?

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  3. Would the repair that Anonymous suggested cause the point where the support bracket attaches to the house fall out of the range of attachment locations?
    Our is the bracket movable and I just don't remember the details.

    I know from experience that you can break the handle of a steel, American made, 48" pipe wrench if you use a staging pipe and three mechanics.
    The bolt still didn't move in the hole.

    "Give me a place to stand, and a lever long enough, and I can break anything." (The lesser know and very true statement by Archimedes the mechanic."

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    Replies
    1. Please imagine that I closed the parenthesis.

      A bit more thinking.
      Maybe cut the legs to where they are good and then use aluminum electricians tubing and a mechanical coupling to make new legs.
      If things go in your favor, you might be able to thread the existing legs and the repair legs to use an aluminum coupling.
      HF's mechanical pipe threading set is around fifty dollars and some coupon use might drive that lower.
      An electrical supply house should stock the pipe and fittings you need.
      Thinking continues.

      Delete
  4. A C clamp will not touch that, SG; work hardened as it is, the yield point is probably north of 40ksi. VERY heavy pipe clamps might work but I doubt it. For the clamp, I would use something similar to the Brownells barrel vise which has 4 hefty bolts, 2 per side, to clamp the tower leg, AND run a tapered pin up the inside of the leg at the same time as you tighten the vice. https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/vises-accessories/barrel-vises/barrel-vise-prod41623.aspx

    If I did not have such a vice, I'd fab one and use 3/4 fine thread hardened bolts and nuts on some 1" by 3" or 4" stock 6 or 8" long. I would use ARP stud lube on the bolts and on the pin; any high pressure moly lube would work, but I have the ARP stuff. I'd also make sure I had a collar with flats on the pin so I would be able to both rotate and pull on it to get it out afterwards. Good luck!
    Historian

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  5. Check into automotive exhaust tools. There is something called an expanding mandrel. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/gearwrench/tools---equipment/mechanics-tools/exhaust-tools/4b165583e2d6/gearwrench-tailpipe-expander/kdt0/2071d?q=exhaust+tools&pos=2

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  6. I see two options as straitening the bend will further weaken the metal.

    1- Cut the same amount off of all three legs. Find some pipe that fits the inside diameter to reinforce the base of the legs and drill to mount set bolts. Reattach mounting hardware. The tower will be 2" shorter but the base will be beefed up so this would not happen again.
    2- Cut off dented area, insert pipe that fits inside diameter and set it so that it protrudes the amount that was cut off and pin it in place. Insert pipe over reinforcement pipe and weld the two together at the seam and the inner/outer on the bottom then grind smooth.

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  7. Cutting off all three legs is quite a bit more involved than it sounds. Look in the background of the second picture. The hinge that holds the tower while cranking up and down is on the bottom cross member and installed by the factory at assembly. I don't have a way to crank the tower over for storms or to work on antennas if I do that.

    Not being able to crank over the tower multiplies the difficulty of everything I do by a hundred or so.

    The work hardening of that leg is something I'm painfully aware of, and as of yesterday afternoon, I have a piece of thick walled aluminum pipe on order that will fit inside this leg. Sort of like the second option tsquared mentioned at 0958, except since I don't have a welder and can't weld, I was looking at through bolts or tapping holes in the pipe itself. Probably through bolts.

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    Replies
    1. Cut it off, put in an internal sleeve, and make a sleeve to match the OD, and find some one to Tig it for you.
      Lot's of people out there with lightweight AC inverter welders and small argon bottles. Bonus, you may meet a very useful acquaintance!

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  8. What tsquared said, but I'd consider the same kind of fix you used on the antenna elements: machine a plug (or three) and put them in the bottom few inches of the tower legs. This way you can keep the tower at the same elevation relative to the house clamp.

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